By Susan Jane Cheney

MOST of us associate holidays with feasting, but Muslims celebrate Ramadan, the major Islamic holiday, with a month of daytime fasting. At the end of the month, however, happy celebrations with family and friends focus on eating, with many of the dishes being vegetarian.

Regardless of where a Muslim lives, it is customary during Ramadan to break the daily fast slowly at sundown. A Middle Eastern Muslim might enjoy a few dates or olives, a Balkan Muslim a bit of bread and cheese. Later in the evening, they will both likely eat a large meal, perhaps featuring a hearty soup or a bean and vegetable stew, side dishes, grains and condiments. Jary, a north African vegetable soup; Demjeddera, a Palestinian lentil and rice dish; and Spicy Pakistani Potatoes and Cauliflower illustrate Ramadan’s multicultural character. Nighttime meals are usually simple yet substantial, geared to providing nourishment for long stretches dur ing the day. Carbohydrates (including sweets) are commonly featured because they’re such good sources of fuel. Just before dawn, a Muslim might snack again, maybe on a little porridge, bread or fruit. Because Ramadan occurs at a different time each year, dishes vary seasonally as well as culturally.

The following dishes were created with input and guidance from Karen Sheikh of Minneapolis, and Brahim Hadj-Moussa, owner and chef of a wonderful restaurant called The Barbary Fig in St. Paul, Minn.

Vegetable Soup

This Algerian version is thickened slightly with cracked wheat. It can be on the table in about 45 minutes.

Heat oil. in a heavy soup pot over medium heat. Add onion; sauté until tender and translucent, about 5 minutes. Stir in garlic, paprika and cayenne; cook 1 to 2 minutes more, stirring constantly. Add tomato puree and stock. Bring to a simmer and stir in salt and cracked wheat.

Cover, reduce heat and simmer gently, stirring occasionally, until cracked wheat is tender, about 30 minutes. Remove from heat and cool slightly.

Transfer soup to blender or food processor. Add parsley, cilantro and mint; process until soup is almost smooth. Return soup to pot, stir in garbanzo beans and reheat. Add lemon juice and salt to taste. Serves 4.

PER SERVING: 113 CAL.; 4G protein.; 2G fat; 19G carb.; 0 chol.; 281mg sodium.; 3G fibre. Vegan.

Couscous Berbere

This dish generally has five vegetables and five spices. There are differences in its specific makeup, but olive oil, onion, garlic, garbanzos or fava beans, raisins and almonds are constants.

30 MINUTES OR LESS Toss together couscous and teaspoon salt in a bowl. Drizzle in 1 teaspoon olive oil; mix well. Pour boiling stock or water over grain, cover tightly and set aside.

Heat remaining tablespoon oil in large, heavy skillet over medium heat. Add onion; sauté until translucent, about 3 minutes. Stir in garlic and cabbage and sauté until cabbage is wilted and tender, about 2 minutes. Gradually add carrot, sweet potato, turnip and fennel; cook about 5 minutes, stirring often.

Grind together coriander, fennel seed, caraway, cumin, turmeric and cayenne; add to sauté. Cook about 1 minute longer, stiffing constantly. Add beans and stock or water. Bring just to a simmer, cover tightly and cook until vegetables are tender, about 5 to 10 minutes. Salt to taste.

Fluff couscous with a fork and mound on a platter or individual plates. Serve stew on top, garnished with raisins, almonds and green onion. Serves 4.

PER SERVING: 322 cal.; 7G protein.; 7G fat; 57G carb.; 0 chol.; 378mg sod.; 11G fibre. Vegan

Ramadaniya

This fruit and nut compote is traditionally served during Ramadan (as its name indicates). Soak the dried fruits the night before you plan to make the compote.

Soak prunes, apricots and figs overnight in water to cover. Simmer over low heat. When liquid is reduced, add honey. Stir in orange blossom water or zest, almonds, pistachios and pine nuts.

Serve warm or cold. Makes about 3 cups. (Servings are traditionally small - just a few spoonfuls.

PER TABLESPOON: 98 cal.; 2G prot.; 3G fat; 15G carb.; 0 chol.; 3mg sod.; 3G Fibre. Vegan (Honey)

GLOSSARY

Bulgur: Cracked wheat that has been hulled and parboiled. Available in supermarkets.

Ghee: A golden oil that results when milk solids are removed from melted butter, also called clarified butter.

Granulated sugar cane juice: A natural-food substitute for sugar. Made from sugarcane juice that is dehydrated and then milled into a powder. Only the water is removed, leaving the vitamins, minerals and trace elements naturally present in sugar cane. Available in natural food stores.

Mung bean sprouts: Sprouts of a small, round, green or yellow bean. Available fresh or canned in supermarkets.

Orange blossom water: Made by distilling water over bitter orange blossoms. Has a flowery essence. Available in Middle Eastern markets.

Shoyu: A naturally brewed soy sauce that contains wheat. It is aged and contains no preservatives, coloring or dextrose. Can be used interchangeably with tamari or soy sauce. Available in natural food stores, Asian markets and some supermarkets.

Tamarind paste: A paste made from the tart pulp of pods from a small tropical tree indigenous to India and eastern Africa. Available in Indian markets.